Fishing Real Estate

Basic Story: Fly-Fishing Perfection on New Zealand’s North Island

A a lot youthful creator exhibits off a fantastic Thriller Creek rainbow.

A a lot youthful creator exhibits off a fantastic Thriller Creek rainbow.
Photograph by Sandy Hays

[Editor’s note: Here’s a classic story, about a 2004 journey to New Zealand’s North Island, with my buddy Sandy Hays and another more famous angler. By the way, that day on Mystery Creek still hasn’t been topped.]

Because the thirty-six-foot Prime Cat plowed by the mounting whitecaps in the course of the lake and sheeting rain lashed on the home windows of the cabin, I discovered perverse consolation in singing “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” underneath my breath. The lake, it’s mentioned, by no means offers up her lifeless. . . . Even on flat-calm days, large boats in deep water give me the willies, and this was no exception. The truth that Brian, our captain, appeared comparatively positive that we might not capsize and sink was heartening, though my confidence in his judgment was considerably shaken by the invention of a four-CD set referred to as “Beer-Ingesting Songs” subsequent to the boat’s stereo.

Coaching Day
Our first full day on New Zealand’s North Island had dawned grey and wet, so guides Chris Brennan and Leigh McCarty had scrapped plans to helicopter into the backcountry and had as a substitute organized to fish on Lake Taupo, which lay throughout the road from our lodge. The Prime Cat’s vacation spot was the Western Bays, a collection of coves the place the mouths of feeder streams focus the massive rainbow trout for which the lake is legendary. Sadly, the city of Taupo lies on the northeastern nook of the lake, so the journey required motoring some twenty-odd miles in nasty climate, proper by the middle of New Zealand’s largest physique of water.

Becoming a member of the expedition had been my high-school buddy, Sandy Hays—who performed the roles of photographer and ball-buster—and Lori Ann Murphy, founder of Reel Ladies Outfitters and recipient of the 2015 Orvis Breaking Obstacles Award. Lori Ann’s infectious persona and sharp wit make her enjoyable to be round, however put a fly rod in her hand and level out a giant trout, and instantly she’s all enterprise. Then you definately see why she’s thought-about one of many higher fly fishers and casters on the earth.

As Brian had predicted, we made it by the hurricane with out incident, and he dropped us off on a rocky ledge, together with our gear and three stomach boats. Lori Ann, Chris, and I suited up and kicked our approach by the rain towards a plume of off-color water created by an almost hidden stream flowing between two massive boulders beneath some overhanging bushes. The drill was pretty easy: there was numerous present extending far into the lake, so we’d forged our streamers up and throughout, give the fly time to sink, after which strip it again on the swing.

The Western Bays of Lake Taupo are filled with feisty rainbow trout.
Photograph by person Flyin_higher on

Lori Ann attached first—as customized and manners dictate—and the trout took off for the middle of the lake. After she managed to get most of her line again, Lori Ann expertly maneuvered the fish into Chris’s web, and we bought a take a look at our first New Zealand trout—a streamlined, 18-inch rainbow that sported the attractive silvery sheen of a lake dweller. It felt good to get the skunk off so rapidly, particularly given the nasty climate and torturous crossing.

Over the following few hours, we caught maybe a dozen trout ranging in dimension from 16 to 24 inches. The fish pulled exhausting and peeled off line on lengthy runs. Though we noticed a couple of rising fish, we couldn’t tempt any to strike a dry fly, scoring as a substitute with quite a lot of flashy smelt imitations and Woolly Buggers. It wasn’t the form of angling we’d traveled midway across the globe for, however it felt good to really feel the tug of a trout in the course of winter.

Choppering In
The following morning, Taupo was bathed in shiny solar, and from the lodge eating room we noticed the unbelievable vista that had been obscured by the day prior to this’s clouds. Past the far finish of the lake stood three volcanoes in sharp reduction towards a blue sky. Within the foreground, the lake was flat calm and a pair of waterskiers was placing on an honest present, full with spectacular wipeouts.

Chris and Leigh had been carrying large grins after they met us within the parking zone; the forecast was excellent for a day within the again nation. The plan was to fly in to a distant stream that they confer with solely as “Thriller Creek,” which flows by land owned by the Maori, New Zealand’s native individuals. The Maori lease entry to the helicopter firm, which then divvies the waters among the many native guides and lodges. As a result of trout populations are usually a lot decrease than you’ll discover within the states, all events concerned are cautious of the harm overfishing might do. Due to this fact, there are strict guidelines about how typically anglers can go to every stream. As an example, Chris and Leigh should relaxation Thriller Creek for 5 days after every journey. We had been about to learn how properly that system works.

The flight in was beautiful. To the west, the height of Mount Ruapehu—the biggest of the volcanoes—lay shrouded in mist. The mountains of the Kaweka Vary beneath us had been steep and thickly forested with purple and silver beech timber, making a maze of deep, slender, lush valleys. Rivers coursed by many of those shadowed valley bottoms, and Leigh identified those that they fished commonly.

Lastly, the chopper crested a ridge, and a large, softly sloping valley unfold out earlier than us. By way of tussocks of tall, brown grass meandered a small freestone stream, which seemed loads “trouty” from the air. This was Thriller Creek, and it was about to turn out to be my favourite trout river in the whole world.

The shores of Lake Taupo had been our base on the North Island.
Photograph through Google Maps

Merely The Finest
As a former journal editor, I’m totally conscious that out of doors writing tends to hyperbole, and it’s essential to maintain a salt lick useful for coping with overwrought tales of “100-fish days” and “monstrous, gullible trout.” So right here’s a disclaimer: our day on Thriller Creek didn’t produce improbable numbers of trout, and none of them was over 25 inches. However this was, indubitably, the perfect day of fly fishing in my life. The gorgeous surroundings, the number of water, the type of fishing, the demanding and hard-fighting trout, and the corporate made for a near-perfect angling expertise.

As we stood beside the creek gearing up, Lori Ann requested what dry-fly patterns we’d be utilizing. Chris turned fairly secretive and turned his again to us as he opened his fly field.

“You’ve gotta match the hatch completely to catch these fish, so we use our personal particular fly that nobody’s by no means heard of,” he mentioned.

He turned again round with a giant grin on his face, holding the fly aloft, as if it had been a holy relic.

“The Royal Wulff!”

He cackled as he took word of our skepticism.

“Yeah, you Individuals at all times come down right here anticipating to fish particular flies and features for the spookiest fish on the earth,” Leigh defined. “I believe plenty of that’s for the South Island, however we don’t actually need to try this right here. That doesn’t imply the fishing’s simple, although. The trout are fairly spooky, and also you’ve gotta be capable of make an ideal drift, or they received’t contact it.”

(This turned about to be true for our total journey. Hardly ever did we see a trout refuse a well-presented fly. Many of the trout that we noticed however couldn’t catch had been holding in spots the place it was tough or not possible to get a superb drift. As an example, on our second-to-last day, Lori Ann spent about 45 minutes being tortured by an overhanging department between her and a 10-pound brown trout mendacity in a foot of water.)

Thriller Creek holds wild rainbow trout and options an astonishing number of riffles, runs, swimming pools, and cutbanks for a stream that’s hardly ever greater than 15 toes vast. What makes it—and all of the rivers we fished in New Zealand—completely different from similar-looking waters within the U.S. is that the trout-per-mile numbers are a lot decrease. A number of occasions, I’d cease to fish an apparent lie, and the guides would advise towards it as a result of they couldn’t see a fish or knew from expertise that there was in all probability nothing there. So we merely hiked upstream till somebody (nearly at all times Chris or Leigh) noticed a trout, and whoever was up would wade in and begin casting.

I caught my first rainbow by chance. The primary time it struck, I used to be too fast on the set off and snatched the fly proper out of the trout’s mouth, so I finished for a couple of minutes to relaxation the fish and to berate myself (Sandy helped) earlier than I forged once more. The fly elicited no response because it drifted over the trout a second time, so I let my guard down and had a go searching. Out of the blue, there was an amazing splash, and the peanut gallery on the financial institution set free a yell.

Whereas I had been admiring the surroundings, the trout had apparently had second ideas and had chased the fly downstream. Now the fish was headed downstream and making an attempt to tug me with it. Chris and I chased it round a bend, whereupon he executed a nifty scoop with the online. The trout had beautiful, deep colours—a lot richer than these of the silvery lake fish we had caught the day earlier than—and it felt agency, robust, and wholesome in my arms. At about 20 inches and three and a half kilos, it appeared to me the proper trout.

As regular, the photographer caught the most important trout.
Photograph by Phil Monahan

Lori Ann, Sandy, and I took turns casting, and every of us caught a minimum of a half dozen fish as much as 24 inches. In reality, we didn’t see one underneath 18 inches all day. As regular, Sandy—the least skilled angler—caught the most important trout. All however three fish fell for a dimension 12 Royal Wulff, and the others took a reasonably easy bead-head copper nymph fished as a dropper. It was enjoyable and difficult to identify a trout, plan your strategy, and make the appropriate presentation—all with a four-person viewers. Sharing in one another’s successes and failures made us really feel like a staff, and I loved watching the others take fish as a lot as I loved my very own alternatives. Nicely…nearly as a lot.

Trying to find a Monster
Since we’d had such an amazing day of dry-fly fishing and had caught good numbers of fish, Chris and Leigh determined that the remainder of our time must be spent seeking the large trout for which New Zealand is legendary. On day three, we flew in to the Ngaruroro, a a lot bigger river of which Thriller Creek is a tributary, and caught extra large rainbows on Royal Wulffs and nymphs. I hooked what was actually my largest fish of the journey from a deep pool, however the fish straightened the heavy-wire hook of my Ugly Bug nymph.

Our final day within the backcountry was spent mountain climbing up the Ripia River, well-known for its large browns. The water was fairly excessive, so we spent a lot of the day strolling within the river itself and performing some severe bushwhacking, which was fairly exhausting. Lori Ann landed a stunning 6-pound brown trout proper off the bat, however that was adopted by an extended dry spell. At lunchtime, we noticed an Eight-pound magnificence finning within the tailout of a pool. Crouching behind a boulder, I made two drifts with a nymph, however the present created a tiny little bit of drag simply earlier than the fly bought to the fish. I used to be sitting there pondering my subsequent presentation when, for no discernible cause, a smaller trout charged out of the principle pool and spooked my monster. Out of spite, I caught the smaller fish, however the picture of that enormous brown is a painful reminiscence.

To cap off our journey, we checked out two of the road-accessible rivers round Lake Taupo—the Kuratau and the Tongariro. Though these waters are clearly underneath extra stress than these within the backcountry, we caught first rate fish, and we noticed some giants. In a single pool on the Tongariro, we might see a minimum of a dozen trout, together with an amazing brown. Chris tied on an egg sample and hooked the beast, which proceeded to leap proper in entrance of us—leaving Sandy and me with mouths agape—earlier than it took off downstream, by no means to be seen once more. Chris estimated the trout at about 9 kilos.

On the lengthy journey again to the states, Sandy and I talked about how completely different this journey had been from our earlier fishing adventures. Affected by excessive water, unseasonably sizzling climate, or easy dangerous luck, none had turned out in addition to we had hoped, however Taupo had ended the streak. And I can hardly picture a day sooner or later that may prime our Thriller Creek expertise.

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